A Modern Mystery in Luxor

by Keith Grenville

Egypt has a multiplicity of ancient mysteries, but a modern mystery exists in the most central position in Luxor today. With hotels being built on every possible vacant space in the town and extending well beyond the town to the north and the south on the east bank of the Nile, it is remarkable to see a valuable wide-fronted site on the Corniche, facing the Nile just begging to be used for a superbly situated hotel.  This large area, geographically in the centre of the Luxor Corniche is fenced off with ugly corrugated iron walls bearing strategically placed notices warning “Keep Out” in Arabic. Inexplicably, this has been the situation since 1993. Peering through the now rotting perimeter corrugated iron, only the ruins of the lower walls of the once pleasant Savoy Hotel reception and garden area can be seen.

This 108-room middle-range hotel boasted a pleasantly wide terrace, comfortably furnished, with a few steps down to a popular garden area with a pleasant view of the Corniche, the Nile and the Theban hills on the West bank. Over a drink, or reasonably priced food, visitors and local people could arrange to meet informally, chat and maybe arrange visits for the following day – all in a most convivial atmosphere. Though hawkers were kept away from the garden, it didn’t stop occasional touting by travel operators. Possibly built in the 1930’s the Savoy covered a large area and behind the main front building there existed a series of buildings in a circle around a large swimming pool. The surrounding fragrant garden with a pleasant mixture of trees, shrubs and flowers, was carefully tended by an elderly gardener who had probably spent most of his years under those shady trees. As a collector of amusing signs, I fondly recall a sign on the wall behind the reception counter reading “We have a safe for your precious”.

The story is that the Savoy Hotel was sold to a new management several years ago. Like a new broom sweeping clean, the new owners unwisely decided to demolish the hotel, presumably intending to build another characterless block building so often the style of today. One has only to look at the New Winter Palace Hotel building on the Corniche of Luxor set in unflattering juxtaposition with the grand appearance of the original Winter Palace Hotel alongside. The New Cataract Hotel in Aswan is a similar example – and both belong to the top echelon of traditional hotels. Unfortunately, the new owners of the Savoy appear to have been unaware of the restriction order placed on their newly acquired hotel and commenced demolishing the building. Having half flattened most of the hotel the Luxor Council belatedly halted the operation. The circumstances surrounding the event are imponderable. Whether a heavy fine was imposed or any other penalty, I am unable to say, but it is obvious that the hotel can never be restored and remains a sad ruin hidden behind an unsightly disintegrating wall of iron for almost a decade. Presumably building plan procedures exist, and one would have thought the Luxor Council, situated literally a few metres away, would have been aware of the plans, and certainly of the operation once hotel business has ceased prior to demolition?

In 1992 I stayed at the 3-star Savoy on the tree-lined Corniche – a stone’s throw from the bazaars, the Nile ferry to the West bank, and altogether one of the most conveniently placed Luxor hotels. I remained in the bustling, dusty town of Luxor for ten days and had a ground floor room with bathroom, air-conditioning, twin beds, television, telephone, a veranda with table and chairs and two steps down to the lawn and swimming pool. I couldn’t ask for more. All of that cost me R80 per night – including breakfast!  In those days that was R80, now we would say R160. When I was eventually due to check out and resume my journeying to El Minya and Tel el Amarna – it was obvious the hotel staff knew I was leaving and Saad, my conscientious “l’homme de chambre” ensured I appreciated how industriously he had worked on my behalf.  Each morning, as the sun rose at about 5.45 (it was October), Saad could be heard gently brushing a feather duster over the veranda furniture and closed shutters of my room.  On that last morning Saad’s feather duster sounded as though it had hob-nailed tips rather than feathers as he vigorously spruced up the shutters and balcony. I was left with little doubt of his efforts on my behalf. As I emerged from my room he appeared like a jack-in-the-box from nowhere greeting me with a broad smile and shaking my hand – anxious that I wouldn’t forget his baksheesh. The breakfast waiter’s attention that same morning was concentrated on my every wish – the toast was freshly made, extra jam and honey and 3 different cheeses instead of the customary one were set on the table. Nothing was too much. I left hotel to continue my Egyptian travels, looking forward to future visits to the Savoy.  Alas, it was not to be – the Savoy has gone and the forlorn ruins and wasted site remain a modern mystery.

IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED I HAVE PHOTOGRAPHS OF THE DERELICT SITE
TAKEN IN SEPTEMBER 2006 -  CONTACT ME AT keithg@egypttoday.co.za